ORD Pizzeria serves excellent pies, nowhere near the airport

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Opening a pizza place a third of a mile from Spacca Napoli is a bold move—but then, ORD Pizzeria isn't making Neapolitan-style pies. It's difficult to say exactly what style of pizza they are making, though. Despite the name, it's definitely not Chicago-style pizza, either deep dish or thin crust. Nor is it Greek or California style. It's probably closest to New York style, but the crust isn't as thin. Whatever you call it, though, it's damn good pizza. The crust is crispy on the outside and slightly chewy, and the inventive flavor combinations on the specialty pies are outstanding (more on that later).

Owner Daniel Bridge told us that when he was developing the crust he considered how well it would travel (it was originally thinner, but that increased the risk of it becoming soggy in transit). The delivery area is fairly limited—Foster to the north, Western to the west, Addison to the south, and the lake to the east—because Bridge wants to make sure that everything is within a ten-minute drive. Dining in isn't a bad option either, though. The small dining room is undistinguished but perfectly pleasant, and they'll even bring you glasses for your beer if you BYO. For carryout, there's a little window on the outside—when I arrived I saw a woman who was walking her dog and picking up a pizza.

The Uncle Jesse (bottom half ) and Colt
  • The Uncle Jesse (bottom half ) and Colt
ORD offers ten specialty pies named after characters from 80s TV shows, plus a weekly "special guest"—in our case the Mr. Furley, a white pizza featuring shiitake, cremini, and portabella mushrooms, caramelized onions, ricotta, fresh garlic, mozzarella, and herb-infused olive oil. It was our favorite of the four varieties we tried (ORD allows you to order half and half specialty pizzas for a small surcharge); the caramelized onions melded beautifully with the mushrooms and the garlic added a slight bite. The oddest-sounding pizza we ordered—the Rose, another white pizza, this one with arugula, herb-roasted potato, caramelized onion, roasted garlic, roasted corn, fontina, mozzarella, and herb-infused olive oil—was also one of the best, the bitter arugula balancing the sweetness of the roasted corn and caramelized onion. There wasn't a bad pizza in the bunch, though: we also enjoyed the Colt (herb-roasted chicken, smoked bacon, sliced tomatoes, mushrooms, roasted garlic, mozzarella, and crushed tomatoes) and the Uncle Jesse (ground meatball, mushrooms, green peppers, Gorgonzola, mozzarella, and crushed tomatoes).

Owner Daniel Bridge behind the counter
  • Owner Daniel Bridge behind the counter
Aside from the pizzas, the menu is brief. There are four salads and two desserts: a cookie and a brownie. But you don't need much of anything else; the Charlie salad—spinach, red onion, figs, Gorgonzola, and walnuts in balsamic vinaigrette—was fresh and well dressed, and the others looked equally appealing. And the brownie, which I would have expected to be an afterthought, was rich and fudgy, almost like a mini chocolate cake with a gooey center. I'd go back just for the brownie—but while I'm there, I'll probably pick up a pizza or two as well.

ORD Pizzeria, 1607 W. Montrose, 773-327-9200, ordpizzeria.com

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