Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: every night till midnight
Subpar Devon Avenue Pakistani restaurant.
Located in what was long rumored to be the site of a spinoff from Khan BBQ, Ali’s will do nothing to unseat that Devon Avenue mainstay—or its chicken boti. While that item’s on the menu, you may or may not be able to get it: we were advised by the waiter to go with the “just made” chicken biryani and beef seekh kebabs instead. The long wait that ensued was hardly worth it. Samosas were dry, saved only by a side of minted yogurt, and the biryani—three morsels of bone-in bird atop a mound of orange-flecked rice—seemed absurdly stingy for eight bucks. The meat lover at the table fared better with the seekh kebabs, four fresh-tasting cylinders rare enough to match the pink walls. And nicely spiced chana dal came in a thick, homey gravy worth sopping, if only the naan weren’t so uncharacteristically dry. Masala tea we hadn’t asked for and didn’t want did nothing to ameliorate another long wait, this time for the check. Alcohol prohibited.
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