Hours: Lunch, Dinner: Monday-Saturday
CLOSED. Logan Square spot offering an eclectic mix of empanadas, sandwiches, pastas, and salads.
It's got a small, dark tiki-bar feel, with the kitchen's beaded curtain, high rattan-backed chairs, and the long bamboo-lined counter behind which our server whipped up mango and almond milk shakes as good as the famous ones at Irazu. Atlas Cafe bills itself as an "international kitchen": the menu hops around madly from club sandwiches to (in winter) charquican, a Chilean stew, with a welcome $10 cap on nearly every item. The zalouk starter, a Mediterranean roast eggplant salad, was tangy and nicely spiced, with warm pita triangles on the side. Apio y avocado, a mound of big, squared-off celery stalks and creamy avocado with a light vinaigrette, was the size of an entree--and only $4.99 to boot. A bland, overly oily garbanzo salad was a miss, but a veggie empanada was perfectly hot and crisp, and spinach ravioli had a blushing tomato sauce that begged to be sopped up (sadly, no breadbaskets here). The menu leans toward the vegetarian, and the kitchen can be spotty handling meat dishes: grilled salmon was hopelessly dry, but another night's cheeseburger was just fine, served on a nice eggy challah bun. And we loved the cheesecake with a blackberry drizzle.
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