Best Appetizer on Which Reasonable Critics Can Disagree

Fried lemon, onion, and jalapeño at Fish Bar

Critics' Picks

Critics can be thin-skinned motherfuckers, so I hope that resident Reader food guy Mike Sula doesn't take umbrage when I say that he is woefully off point about a crucial appetizer at the Lakeview restaurant Fish Bar. Argument: In an April 2011 review, Sula called a mixture of breaded and fried lemon slices, jalapeños, and onions "interesting but ultimately inedible," citing the fact that it "dripped with grease." Rebuttal: Girl, please. I visited the restaurant some time later, when perhaps the kitchen had corrected the grease problem. Or maybe I have a grease problem of my own. Anyway, the beguiling snack is well worth a try. The three flavors it mixes—bright acid, heat, sweet allium—really provide a nice complement to the menu's fishier elements; it's also great slathered in hot sauce and eaten on Saltines.