June 19, 2013
Hazard unto them who would call a culinary form unfuckupable: they may wind up eating cupcakes in hell, or Lincoln Park. Still, I submit that the doughnut has been largely successful in resisting the worst tendencies of those talentless prospectors who heaped such saccharine disgrace on the cupcake—so far, anyway. In the past year we've had doughnuts from Fritz Pastry; from the Doughnut Vault; from downtown's new Firecakes; in a beguilingly wonderful PB&J dessert at Billy Sunday; and, the best of the lot, from the burgeoning empire Glazed and Infused. To a one, they were tributes to the form—light, lilting, well flavored, and well fried. Some have had bacon; some have technically been fritters; some have been filled with lemon curd or coconut cream. All have been delicious. But it bears remembering that a brand-new business license isn't a prerequisite to glory. Some of the standouts were from Roseland's venerable Old Fashioned Donuts, which has been ahead of the curve for, oh, about 40 years.