Chicago chefs are well schooled in the art of engendering cognitive dissonance: Moto’s Homaro Cantu serves up simulated roadkill, and the number of chic joints dishing out tongue-in-cheek sliders are too numerous to mention. At Big & Little’s, Gary “Big” Strauss and Tony “Little” D’Alessandro serve the once forbidden, eternally haute liver over proletarian fried potatoes. The combo is fantastic: a deeply browned bed of crisp strips capped with two medallions of perfectly unctuous duck liver. The night we were there, Little poured a pan of just-rendered foie fat over our fries. For $10, this simple yet uncommonly elegant dish is a gotta have.
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