Best In-House Pasta

Nellcote

Critics' Picks

Jared Van Camp's ambitious grain-to-table program, which has the kitchen milling its own flour for bread, pasta, and pizza, achieves its highest pinnacle in the rustic shapes he's hand-rolling and machine-extruding. Camp's southern-Italian-style spaghetti, lightly dressed with tomato and bread crumbs and salted with cured tuna loin shavings, is thick and ruddy with a pronounced nutty flavor, and it sets a new standard for restaurant pasta arts. Similarly, the black squid ink strozzapreti (gnarly cavatelli-like twists tossed with sweet lobster and chile and served cold) and the radiatore (dark brown corkscrews with duck, mushrooms, and pork cracklings) are among the most scarfable peasant-style pastas I've encountered. On the other hand, silky-thin tendrils of champagne-and-creme-fraiche-sauced taglioni, topped with plump oysters, is the luxuriant antipode to those, and every bit as good.