Best Side Dish

Two-Jacket Potato at Next

Critics' Picks

By now, everyone knows the drill at Next. Chefs Dave Beran and Grant Achatz completely retool the restaurant's menu every four months, taking inspiration from a particular cuisine (vegan, kaiseki), region (Sicily, Thailand), or theme (childhood, foraged). In January, Next introduced Chicago Steakhouse, offering such old-school staples as lobster Thermidor, shrimp cocktail, and, of course, a 30-day aged sirloin. There weren't really any surprises, save for something called Two-Jacket Potato: a hollowed-out potato whose skin had the taste and texture of a perfect potato chip, filled with bone-marrow puree, hash browns, and home fries. Beran and company didn't play it up—it came as a side dish accompanying the main course—but it was easily the most inventive item on Next's most conventional menu, as unforgettable as it was decadent.