Best tater tots

Critics' Picks

The Rocking Horse

2535 N. Milwaukee
773-486-0011

It may seem blasphemous not to crown Skylark the king of tots. But while the classic Pilsen spot does offer impressive heaps of them, Logan Square's Rocking Horse crisps them perfectly and offers Cajun and ranch-infused options in addition to the regular kind. It's not much of a secret that bar and pub tater tots are usually dumped from a bag into a fryer basket and lowered into a deep fryer; the science comes down to the temperature of the oil and the length of the frying. Maybe it's partly the brand, maybe it's partly the fryer, but the Rocking Horse tots are seemingly taken to the edge of being burnt, in the best possible way. The ranch-infused tots are stellar, and I'm not even the biggest fan of ranch dressing. —Kevin Warwick