Hours: Dinner: seven days
Charming French bistro in the former Les Deux Autres.
Tucked into the back end of a quiet mall in a quiet suburb, Les Deux Autres is a class act in a challenged location. French culinary influences are predictably strong here in dishes such as duck confit and seared foie gras with prosciutto and seckel pear, but you will also detect a distinct Asian note, especially in the seafood offerings. Dinner begins with an amuse bouche, a tartlet of salmon mousse, one big mouthful of pink fish cream. Chef Greg Lutes has a way with wildlife, and you might start off with a hunters platter of house-made sausage, pate, and pickled vegetables. Tuna tartare, a dense hockey puck of minced fish, is set atop a bed of tender sea vegetables and perked up with sesame vinaigrette and a brain-clearing blast of wasabi. Chef Lutes also features a roasted pheasant breast wrapped in prosciutto and stuffed with an herbed goat cheese that helps moisten each mouthful of this sometimes dry bird. Eating at Les Deux Autres, you encounter some new kinds of chow: we were introduced, for instance, to nage (a bouillon of wine, scallions, and herbs cradling a plump pillow of potato-lobster ravioli) and farro, a deliciously chewy barleylike grain. Kobe is showing up on many menus (frequently and unfortunately abused in high-end sliders); here this velvety meat shows to advantage in braised short ribs with truffle essence. Seared scallops were of predictably high quality, sprinkled with pealike periwinkles that packed flavor all out of proportion to their size. Owner Louisa Lima is also the pastry chef, and she serves up a fine three-chocolate souffle. There are a number of wines available by the glass, some around $8, but many priced higher, and if youre feeling adventurous, there are five- and eight-course degustation menus ($65 and $92 respectively).
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