by Julia Thiel
The food I tried was uneven, not quite good enough overall to be described as a cut above your average bar food, but probably at least a half step up. Mac 'n' cheese with shallot, garlic, beer-braised pork butt, spinach, dried tomato, and "smoked Gouda cream" sounded great but was light on the mix-ins and fairly bland; salt and pepper would have improved it but they were nowhere to be found (and neither was our waitress). "Airline Chicken," on the other hand, was outstanding, seared until crispy and lightly seasoned; french fries were pretty decent too.
The bar takes its name from its 22-ounce draft pour, served in a frosted mug. Fortunately this isn't an option for all drafts; 22 ounces of the Allagash Curieux, a bourbon-barrel-aged tripel that weighs in at 11 percent alcohol, would be fairly dangerous in that quantity (it arrived in a very reasonable-sized snifter). Our server wasn't particularly well versed in the beers, but she was very willing to bring us generous samples—which was nice, but didn't quite make up for a noise level so high, even on a Sunday night, that my friend and I could barely hear each other.
Fatpour Tap Works, 2005 W. Division, 773-698-8940, fatpourchicago.com