12 O'Clock Track: Mudhoney's ripper about shitty white wine, "Chardonnay"

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Mudhoney is just the best. There are a load of reasons as to why this is—the group's stubborn unwillingness to go the way of much of the first-wave grunge phenomenon and front man Mark Arm's embrace of the curmudgeon lifestyle being among my very favorites. Last month the Seattle band released its ninth album, Vanishing Point, continuing a recent streak among bands with guitars that involves a look back to the early 90s—only this particular look is coming from a band that was birthed from that scene.

Today's 12 O'Clock Track is the minute-and-a-half ripper "Chardonnay," in which Arm bemoans the phoniness of those who consider drinking swill to be an acceptable social convention. The music is reminiscent of old-school Minor Threat—with its fast-moving chord changes and rigid punk beat—and Arm is at his snarling best ("I hate you Chaaarrrdonnnayyyy!"), tearing into a world of soccer moms and backstage fortysomethings who are either cramping his style or just in his way.

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