Hours: Lunch, dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
Open late: Friday & Saturday till midnight
Mexican restaurant specializing in the regional cuisines of Michoacan and Pachuca.
Some savor authenticity; for others, it’s all about the flavor. Neither, unfortunately, will be found at Cosina Grill, an Andersonville restaurant inexplicably jammed on a weekday night. Guacamole was so stunningly tasteless it could have been mistaken for green mashed potatoes or mayonnaise. The touted Dona Esperanza mole, ladled on a spongy chicken breast, tasted of burnt tar, with none of the sauce’s traditional complexity; we couldn't stomach more than a bite or two. The tortilla soup, our server told us, was too spicy for many guests, but we found it had no heat at all. The enchiladas? Also nada. Grilled tilapia was edible because it was just decent fish, not messed with, and so relatively benign though unremittingly bland. Our hostess, who like everyone here was friendly and outgoing, told us the tortillas were made in-house, but they managed to have the flavor and mouthfeel of mass-produced varieties. Leaving Cosina, I wanted to grab newcomers on their way in and shriek, "For god sakes, flee!"
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