Greek Islands Recommended Menu

Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: every night till midnight

Price: $$

Bustling Greektown institution with traditional fare and professional if sometimes gruff service.

Restaurant Details

On a recent Friday night the joint was jumping, three deep at the bar, with a crowded foyer and a 30-minute wait even for those with reservations, but nary a soul was annoyed or antsy, confident they'd soon be tearing hunks from chewy sesame-seed bread and digging a path through garlicky skordalia (chilled potato dip) and taramasalata (fish roe dip). Appetizer specials included lightly charred grilled baby octopus so darn cute you—almost—didn’t want to eat them and house-made gyros served with skordalia instead of the typical tzatziki. Another appetizer not to be missed is lightly fried zucchini with a side of skordalia (hell, let's face it—there isn't much that’s not enhanced by skordalia). Horiatiki (“village salad”), a mix of feta, olives, peppers, and veggies with a vinegary dressing, was refreshing; cold calamari and shrimp, while flavorful, were slightly rubbery. As for entrees, I’d suggest going with the simply prepared, impeccably fresh red snapper or sea bass; lamb chops; or, for those who like to gnaw a bit, char-grilled lamb riblets. Dolmades, spinach pie, garides (baked shrimp with feta and tomato sauce over rice), and keftedes (beef and lamb meatballs stewed in tomato sauce) are good traditional choices. A side of potatoes, rice, or spaghetti comes with most dinners, as does some quite good avgolemono. Desserts include rice pudding, baklava enriched with house-imported honey, and—my favorite—house-made yogurt topped with honey and walnuts. There’s an interesting wine list with a number of reasonable choices, including wines imported by the house. Service is gruff but friendly and efficient in the manner only pros can pull off.

Gary Wiviott

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Price: $$

Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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