Hours: Lunch, Dinner: seven days
Open Late: Friday & Saturday till 4, other nights till 2
Inexplicably popular barbecue institution.
Its a mystery how Leons thrives, given the leathery ribs it serves. At 4:30 on a typical Sunday the smoker was cold and empty but a line had formed to collect desiccated slabs whose meat had overpinked, dried, and flaked like plastic ham. Leons process practically fossilizes the relatively fragile small-end slabs that are nevertheless foisted upon the unsuspecting. (If you insist on going, insist that you be shown your ribs before they're wrapped.) Whatever happens here its a little kinder to tips, perhaps because the meat is fattier, but this doesnt explain the links, which also are dry and flavorless despite their generally coarse and fatty texture. It has been theorized that Leons omnipresence on the south side has lowered expectations in a volatile business where anyone can claim to be a pitmaster and shacks open and close regularly.