Hours: Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
Open late: Saturday till 3, Thursday-Friday till 2, Tuesday-Wednesday till 1, Sunday till midnight
Sprawling "speakeasy" and entertainment venue with small plates from chef Joe Heppe (Vermilion, Mercat a la Planxa).
Despite Untitled's silly pretensions toward secrecy—there's no sign advertising its name except for the one touting valet service—I felt I could like this cavernous "speakeasy" with its imposing black doors, multiple dining rooms and bars, curtained booths, back patio, "secret" entrance, "whiskey library," and performance spaces hosting jazz and burlesque acts. Its scope and ambition are impressive, and everyone gets into the act, from the leggy hostesses in little black dresses to the purposeful floor managers in tam-o'-shanters. And surprisingly, for a place that might easily seem overextended, the food isn't bad at all, and almost everything arrives from the kitchen swiftly, from a selection of charcuterie and cheeses to a predomination of small shared plates to the relatively shorter supply of large ones. Chef Joseph Heppe makes good on promises of seasonality, offering arugula with firm but sweet grilled peaches, delicately battered and deep-fried squash blossoms filled with warm farmer's cheese, favas and mache sprinkled about with bloodred bresaola shavings. Plates with a less obviously summerlike tone bode well for his efforts for the rest of the year. Don't bother attempting to share a loose, juicy bison burger topped with tomato jam and giardiniera—consuming less than the whole will make feel like you've missed something important. But alas, there's the service: on each visit my table was abandoned by servers. The much-touted beverage program doesn't seem likely to engender much goodwill either. The restaurant boasts "the largest selection of American whiskey in the world," but there's no printed list available, and some bartenders in other rooms don't seem to have been granted the power to access it. So for all its vastness and initial celebratory vibe, in the end Untitled seems stuffy and claustrophobic, the kind of party where you feel utterly alone. Read the full review >>
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover
Despite Untitled's silly pretensions toward secrecy—there's no sign except for the one touting valet service—I felt I could like this cavernous "speakeasy" with its imposing black doors, "secret" entrance, and "whiskey library," among other attractions. But the much-touted beverage program doesn't engender much goodwill. Classic cocktails were atrociously executed, and originals fare no better: the Bitter Bonnie, for example, was a supersize drink so treacly that table runners seemed afraid to approach it when it remained untouched. Service otherwise is dreadful, making it the kind of party where you feel utterly alone. —Mike Sula