Selections from Saveur's October mash note to Chicago--which hits newstands today--are now available online, along with some Web-only content that includes a brief piece by from Hungry's Michael Nagrant on Puebla tacos. I haven't gotten my mitts on the print edition yet, but based on the table of contents it looks like a thoroughly juicy overview. But I couldn't help but sigh through this introductory piece, which, like every piece apparently to be written about Chicago food, suffers from more than a touch of "look Ashley, they've got microgreens in the midwest!" condescension. (Paging Alan Richman!)
Sure Chicago's historically a meat and potatoes town--but so's New York, as anyone who's ever been to Peter Luger knows. Sure, we have a rich tapestry of immigrant food traditions -- but so does New York. And San Francisco. And LA. And sure we're at the epicenter of a culinary revolution right now. But while I don't want to diminish the influence of superstars like Grant Achatz, the idea that sophisticated dining somehow sprang fully grown from his toque in the last three years is a disservice to everyone who's been cooking (and eating) here since Charlie Trotter bought that Armitage Avenue townhouse 20 years ago.
In any event, I can't wait to get the hard copy and see what they have to say about Richard Melman (PDF).