First look: Pupuseria Las Delicias | Bleader

First look: Pupuseria Las Delicias

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As reported last month, Pupuseria Las Delicias has moved from its original cramped quarters on Western Avenue to the corner of Montrose and Spaulding in a neighborhood particularly dense with Salvadorans, Hondurans, and Guatemalans.

Have you had pupusas?--handmade corn tortillas stuffed with a variety of fillings, commonly cheese, beans, pork, or a combination thereof--and griddled until they ooze. You might eat them folded like a taco over the ubiquitous vinegary coleslaw curtido and drizzled with thin, red or green salsa. They are so revered in their native El Salvador that National Pupusa Day is celebrated every November 13. When I visited San Salvador in 1999 I got stuck in a traffic jam caused by the commotion surrounding an attempt to make the World's Largest Pupusa, a feat topped earlier this summer in LA.

A few pupusas go a long way and those at Las Delicias are substantial. There's bean, cheese, chicharron, chorizo, chile and cheese, ham and cheese, fish, chicken, shrimp, zucchini, chipilin, loroco, or any combination of the above, including a supersized pupusa loca with up to five ingredients. All but the loca run between $1.75 and $2.50 apiece. They've also added the option of rice flour pupusas, which I was surprised to learn from owner Hugo Gutierrez Jr. are more popular with Salvadorans than the masa variety--though I found them bland and rubbery compared to the grittier and slightly sweet cornmeal ones. Las Delicias has expanded its other offerings too, adding more Honduran and Guatemalan dishes.

Pupuseria Las Delicias is at 3300 W. Montrose. 773-267-5346

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