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David Hammond pinch hits Food & Drink in this week's paper with a roundup of where to get real tacos al pastor--juicy marinated pork, with a bit o' char, sliced to order from a flamed, rotating spit. As you'll read, they ain't easy to come by. Most places don't get enough traffic to keep the meat tower fired up--a not uncommon complaint about Middle Eastern and Mediterranean variants such as shawarma and gyros. But for a guy like Hammond, life is legwork. After his piece went to press he sussed out a beaut at the Maxwell Street Market at the Rubi's/Manolo's tent (pictured at left).
"The guy at Rubi's was very proud of it," says Hammond. He was "standing to the side and enthusing 'real charcoal!'"