One bite: taco de guevera at Birrieria La Barca Jalisco | Bleader

One bite: taco de guevera at Birrieria La Barca Jalisco

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I finally made my way to Birrieria La Barca Jalisco on Sunday, which, as far as I know, is the only other restaurant in town besides the wonderful Birrieria Zaragoza that makes birria tatemada, or roasted goat with consomme (as opposed to steamed or simmered). La Barca's birria is different--saltier, fattier, and spicier--than Zaragoza's more subtle cabrito (can you say such a thing about goat?).

Also on hand at La Barca are the very unusual tacos de guevera, or catfish roe tacos (the specimen above was captured by Peter Engler). I could find nothing on this seasonal Jalisciense dish other than what the estimable RST reports here, though Juan Zaragoza says his uncle makes a mean version. At any rate, at La Barca the fish eggs are cooked with peas and chiles and served on one of their otherworldly house-made tortillas. The texture is not unlike tofu scramble, and the flavor is slightly sweet, not at all fishy, and followed by a slow, slight burn from the chiles. Birria is the ideal hangover curative but--while I liked it better than I expected to--I wouldn't put guevera in the same category.

Birrieria La Barca Jalisco, 304 4304 W. 26th, 773-522-1450

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