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In What’s New, Mike Sula reviews Fish Bar, the latest from Michael Kornick and David Morton, the team behind neighboring DMK Burger Bar. The 30-seat Lakeview spot draws from New Orleans oyster bars, New England clam shacks, and Chicago’s own shrimp houses, offering po’boys, lobster rolls, fried shrimp and clams, gumbo, bisque, and chowder, plus carpaccio and ceviche.
In Omnivorous Sula takes a tour of Mexican restaurants offering vegetarian and near-vegetarian especialidades de Cuaresma, i.e., Lenten specials for those fasting on Fridays. Among them are La Casa del Pueblo, where there are sardine-stuffed deep-fried jalapeños, enchiladas potosinas (actually cheese-filled empanadas), and calabacitas rellenas de queso, cheese-stuffed Mexican squashes. At Taqueria Traspasada you can try fried smelts (aka charales) and tortitas de camaron, pungent, spongy fried cakes made from ground dried shrimp and egg and served smothered in guajillo sauce. And at Birrieria Zaragoza, best known for its goat, you’ll find a superior version of capirotada, Lenten bread pudding. Norma Zaragoza’s recipe is here.
In Key Ingredient, One SixtyBlue chef Michael McDonald, challenged by Province’s Randy Zweiban with miso, uses both white and red versions of the fermented paste in his shrimp spring rolls with edamame puree. Next up is Bill Kim of Urban Belly and Belly Shack, working with aloe vera. Is that edible? “We shall see,” said McDonald.
In the listings are 14 spots for seafood, among them Big & Little’s, known for its fish tacos, fish-and-chips, and crab tostadas as well as its foie gras french fries; Kingfisher, the new Edgewater restaurant from Peter McCarthy, formerly of Pier 5736; and 2010 Beard award winner Calumet Fisheries, family owned and smoking fish since 1948.