This Week in Food & Drink: Next—Paris 1906, the Doughnut Vault Taste Test, Key Ingredient Vienna Beef Hot Dogs, and More | Bleader

This Week in Food & Drink: Next—Paris 1906, the Doughnut Vault Taste Test, Key Ingredient Vienna Beef Hot Dogs, and More

by

Sign up for our newsletters Subscribe

comment

Barry Sorkins dragon turds

Mike Sula reviews the first incarnation of Next, where the decadent multicourse menu modeled on Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire brings on tears, hallucinations, and reveries worthy of Proust. Executive chef Dave Beran manages to merit the hype lavished on this project from Alinea partners Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonos, from his exquisite hors d’oeuvres like oeuf Benedictine through turtle soup and pressed duck with potatoes dauphinoise to a Sauternes-style sorbet and mignardises. Alas, in keeping with the time-travel theme behind Next, the Paris 1906-set opener is not long for this world—Beran’s already doing his homework for the next incarnation, a Thai restaurant due to debut in June.

In What’s New Sula teams up with editorial intern Asher Klein to subject the Doughnut Vault to a scientifically minded taste test, Klein standing in the long early-morning line that forms before this River North hole-in-the-wall while Sula slept off his feast at Next and debauch at the Aviary, the Alinea team’s bar next door (more on this in a few weeks), before coming in to the office. Sula's verdict? Send the intern down to Roseland's Old Fashioned Donuts next time.

In Key Ingredient (which won a Beard award for multimedia feature last week) Barry Sorkin of Smoque—challenged by Doug Sohn of Hot Doug’s with Vienna Beef hot dogs—diced, marinated, and panfried them, then combined them with dried cherries, scallions, and Oaxaca cheese for use in the delicacy known as dragon turds, stuffed jalapeños wrapped with bacon and smoked or grilled. Next up is Cleetus Friedman of City Provisions Deli, enthusiastically employing bourbon.

In our new Cocktail Challenge Sepia mixologist Josh Pearson used the bee resin propolis to create his raspberry-flavored Propawhat Margarita; there’s a slide show of the process here. Next up is Cristiana DeLucca of the Drawing Room, tasked by Pearson, a native of Australia, with Vegemite, the supersalty spread made from brewer’s yeast.

Add a comment