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Suno, which gained prominence a few years ago for separates made from African prints, pulled back on the intensity this season, focusing on black-and-white as well as watered-down hues. The graphics themselves, however, were just as vibrant as ever, everything from stripes to scrollwork—even lace, which is paired with more tailored looks to temper the sweetness. Silhouettes included everything from loose blouses to body-skimming gowns. The new direction is offers a fresh take on the label's penchant for inspired pattern mixing, but my favorite piece was the one that hearkened back to their colorful past (love those capelet-like sleeves).
It's no surprise that the Row—designed by two young celebrity sisters—cultivates a sylphlike LA style that combines luxury with comfort. Everything in the collection is white and cream—clothes for people with budgets for constant dry-cleaning. Some of the pants look good—the Olsens seem to do a great job with relaxed, louche trousers in general—although if you're looking for something with a drawstring, I hope you're not paying more than $50. This season they attempted a few more avant-garde styles, of which the most successful were the pieces that incorporated textured details, like a collar or a squiggle down the front of a tunic.
Maybe I'm making too much of the Chicago connection, but I sensed the influence of Tavi Gevinson in the collection from local line Creatures of the Wind. The bold pairing of bright colors, use of potentially frumpy floral prints, and girlish frocks brought the petite blogger's offbeat and daring style to mind. For those of us who can't see ourselves quite pulling that off, there are brilliantly simple shifts in black and white—and a stunning navy version that uses some of the duo’s origami-like detailing.