Sign up for our newsletters Subscribe
A few things:
1) The area Sulzberger covers, “the Midwest,” “stretches from Oklahoma to North Dakota,” he notes.Oklahoma? Are Illinois and Indiana covered by the Times’'s east-coast bureau? 2) Somebody tried to put lard, which Sulzberger's server didn't realize constituted "meat," in some pintos at a Tex-Mex restaurant in Kansas cattle country. Leaving aside the fact that everybody knows that refried beans frequently aren’t vegetarian, this anecdote seems mostly to the point of making an ignorant-waitress joke—these people eat meat even when they don’t think they’re eating meat! In the sense that it’s more embarrassing to the teller than the subject, this story is not unlike one that I once heard a relative tell, about a backwoods waitress who mispronounced “pinot noir.” 3) At a Kansas City restaurant Sulzberger can’t even order the fries, which are “lard-bathed.” Who’s heard of "lard-bathed" fries? That sounds awesome.