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In Key Ingredient the Publican's Erling Wu-Bower contends with gold leaf. Gold is tasteless and odorless, and hence serves a purely decorative function (plus is tricky to work with, he found: "Do not touch the gold leaf with your fingers! It will stick like the dickens!"). True to the spirit of the Publican, he used it in a dish of fried smelts with harissa aioli, plated with purple cauliflower, turnips, radishes, celery, and roasted beets, and sprinkled with more gold leaf. "It's the most expensive fish fry you've ever seen," he said. Next up is Bryce Caron, the pastry chef at Blackbird, working with Asian carp, a species with which the Reader has had more than one encounter.
In the listings are some of Slurping Turtle's neo-Japanese/fusion neighbors, among them Roka Akor, Sunda, and Union Sushi & Barbeque Bar.
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