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You know when you're strolling past the supermercado salsa shelf, eying the pink pico de gallo and graying salsa verde? Do you ever surmount the suspicion that management is extending the life of onions, cilantro, chiles, and crappy South American tomatoes about to go bad?
If you catch the guacamole at Cermak Produce at the right moment, it's pretty good, and sometimes you might come across something really interesting. Otherwise the rest is often barely fit for compost. But one local chain has a dependable and varied house-made salsa repertoire.
Tony's Finer Foods always has a brilliantly colored and fresh selection. You might pick up arbol, habanero, guajillo, or a five-chile blend, but in current heavy rotation in my household is their pasilla-tamarind salsa. Chocolatey, smoky, and sweet, it reminds me of apple butter. You could surely plow through a tub ($2.49 per pound) with a bag of tortilla chips, but you might try splashing it on fish or spaghetti squash with spoonful of cotija cheese. You know, something finer.