Mike Sula reviews Au Cheval
, the new Randolph Row venture from prolific chef/entrepreneur Brendan Sodikoff. Sula brought a dieter with him to dinner, but won’t repeat that mistake—there’s nothing for weak eaters on the menu at the closest thing Chicago has to Montreal glutton mecca Au Pied de Cochon. While at APdC the focus is foie, Sula found the centerpiece for many of Sodikoff’s successes to be the egg—you can get it scrambled with foie gras, poached in chilaquiles, beside bacon and escarole in a salad, or crowning a croque madame. Or on fries, with chives, peppers, mornay sauce, and aioli. Or atop potato hash with duck heart gravy. There are 30 craft beers on tap, and desserts are simple, with options including a house-made root beer float (with Black Dog gelato) and mille feuille
meant to share.
In Cocktail Challenge, Scofflaw bartender Danny Shapiro was tasked with creating a drink featuring durian, the notoriously shitty-smelling Asian fruit. “A durian is notorious for smelling like butts and I am notorious for being really mature,” Shapiro told Julia Thiel—so he created a “poopsicle,” which is sort of what it sounds like, but without actual poop.
Listings on the B Side are for dive bars, among them the Bob Inn, the Granville Anvil, and Reader staff favorite (it’s right around the corner from our office) Rossi’s.