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Midwestern fine-dining trends reach New York
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  • Midwestern fine-dining trends reach New York
The other day, in its otherwise perfectly fine Pizza Issue, the New York Times ran a short piece by Pete Wells on deep-fried pizza, in which the new-ish food critic (who’s no Sam Sifton, by the way, or even Frank Bruni) waxes comparative on the relationship between the item in question—an actual Italian import—and the cuisine of Wisconsin, where once a year there’s a state fair with a lot of deep-fried food. “New Yorkers are open to new ideas, but they are not ready just yet to take their pizza cues from Wisconsin,” Wells concludes.

Wrong! Just last month New York magazine, which knows from urbanite trends, published a spring food preview that featured the forthcoming restaurant Nicoletta, where chef Michael White plans to make “Wisconsin”-style pizza. What’s that? White gave some hints, like “Our pizza will not droop” and, with regard to the crust, “Not too thin, not too thick.” NY mag said it’s “pizza dough run through some kind of Homer Price-like contraption called a sheeter, and made in the style of some place called Wisconsin.”

Note to New York: a sheeter is a machine that rolls your dough for you. Bakers use it. Otherwise, you got me. I lived in Wisconsin and I have no idea what it means for pizza to be Wisconsin-style. That’s how exclusive that shit is.