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I'm happy to say that's no longer the case, courtesy of a concept imported from southern California, where the doughnut is a regional totem like hot dogs in Chicago and pizza in New York and doughnut shops come a dime a dozen. This February, Lettuce Entertain You vets Jeff Mahin (of LA joint Stella Rossa Pizza Bar) and Francis Brennan (late of L20) started Do-Rite Donuts (50 W. Randolph), an unassuming storefront in the Loop with none of the Prohibition-era sexiness of the aforementioned Vault and, at least in my experience, none of the wait. There I ordered the old-fashioned—the rustic, cakey variety Krispy Kreme never told you about—and when I regained my senses, it had me texting my girlfriend three-letter words ("OMG," "nom"), such was the depth of its bright vanilla and the length of its crunch. Beyond semantics, this doughnut exercised a stronger hold on me: I meant to save at least half for someone at the office but my hand and mouth didn't seem to register my mind's protestations. I had another good bite at Do-Rite with the Boston cream, whose rich chocolate ganache and subtle, almost banana-flavored cream filling reverses that pastry's old and eggy formula. There's plenty to improve on, like the really salty glazed doughnut and the bacon-maple glaze that tastes like it was made for a lumberjack, too much beef jerky and no dough. It's pricey too, at $32 per dozen. But happily I can get another old-fashioned for just over $2, and I won't have to arrive at 8 AM—according to Do-Rite's Twitter feed, the place tends to run out at around 2 PM.