The menu is compact: pizza (six, including a build-your-own option), calzones (three), salads (a house and a caprese), canned soda. And that's how it should be—what, you want buffalo chicken as a topping? Spillane's "Meat" is a triple threat of pepperoni, calabrese salami, and locally sourced Italian sausage, the judiciously applied tomato sauce and cheese atop the pliable thin crust a lesson to pile-on-the-yellow-mozz Chicago pizzerias. There's tomato pie, "like it sounds"; a white pizza, made with fresh basil; plain cheese—one customer took a picture to show his buddy what he was missing.
Spillane says there are a lot of east-coast transplants in Lincoln Park, and though he's not trying, much less pretending, to offer New York-style slices, it's the New Yorkers who give him the most guff. Philadelphians, along with the rest of us—even Yelpers—"just say 'ahhh.'"
Armitage Pizzeria, 711 W. Armitage, 312-867-9111; cash only, BYO, closed Mondays.