- Andy Barnes
- Duck egg pasta with confit and cracklings, one of Two's hits
"Does a restaurant exist if Google can't find it?" Mike Sula philosophically asks this week. Well, yes, in the case of West Town's Two
, a new neighborhood bistro from Yamandu Perez, chef-owner of Hinsdale's Zak's Place
. Nevertheless, the place suffers from something of an identity crisis, distinguished by neither its concept (locally sourced, eh? what else is new?) nor its execution. In fact, Sula's meals there were so wildly inconsistent that Two might as well as have been two different restaurants, on one occasion offering snarfable duck egg pasta, fat little lamb T-bones, and a fall-off-the-bone chicken thigh, but on the next serving flaccid sausage and bruschetta on cold toasts. The upshot? Two has swept out "the ghosts of the Black Sheep
to make way for entirely new ones."
For this week's Cocktail Challenge, Mike Freeman of the Palm concocted a grown-up's PB&J, the Peanut-Bourbon Julep, featuring his ingredient, peanut butter. Inspired by one of Freeman's favorite combinations, peanut butter and maple syrup, the cocktail counters their nuttiness and sweetness with tart cherry bitters, rosemary, and Bourbon Trace bourbon. Next up is Brendan Smith of Spiaggia, challenged with yellow mustard, a condiment he hates.
On the Bleader are new reviews of West Town's rooftop Homestead and the Old Town bakery La Fournette, an update on Elizabeth restaurant's ticketing system, and a firsthand report on the unholy union of candy corn and Oreos.