It's right in the middle of Ramadan, so naturally you're so hungry by sunset that you can barely walk. So if you find yourself staggering down the 1400 block of North Ashland, you can break the fast at Abu Daoud Cafe, the city's only Sudanese restaurant, which replaced the Moroccan Marrakech Cuisine back in April.

Iftar at Abu Daoud means fortifying yourself with a number of things, including soup, falafel, beans, a thick porridge called aseeda, an injeralike fermented rye- and wheat-flour flatbread called kissra, a beef stew called mullah, and a couple other dishes that eluded my Google-fu, and that owner Afaf Ahmed told me I'd just have to come in and try for myself. Lamb and salad were promised.

If something on that menu doesn't strike you as particularly Sudanese, there's a reason—Ahmed still has falafel and a couple other Middle Eastern and north African holdovers from Marrakech, though she told me she does them in a particularly Sudanese style. She hasn't updated the menu she posted on Facebook yet either, but says she's cooking even more Sudanese dishes than it indicates.

It's a big meal for $18, she says, because you're gonna need it.

Abu Daoud Cafe, 1413 N. Ashland, 312-735-5000; dinner from 4 PM Tuesday-Saturday; cash only.