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It's all pretty good: the chowder is swimming with fat chunks of clam meat, the shrimp are fresh and sweet, but the oysters are surprisingly well tended, an ever-changing selection of a half dozen east- and west-coast bivalves shipped, I was told, in small batches to ensure high turnover. Best of all was the skill and knowledge of the shucker I sat before, who grew up on the beaches of Acapulco popping oysters with his dad, and who barely chipped a shell or spilt a drop of precious liquor. I promise, you'll sit at the bar, put bread in his jar and say, "Man what are you doing here?"
Mariano's, 1800 W. Lawrence, 773-334-3549, marianos.com