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David Chang popularized it at Momofuku, serving a glazed and slow-cooked pork shoulder in place of the belly. I subbed in Chang's bo ssam recipe for turkey one year at Thanksgiving and I guess everyone was too busy demolishing it to complain.
But you don't often see bo ssam served in restaurants around here, and perhaps that's because the market is cornered by a suburban specialist. Hal Mae Bo Ssam is located in an unassuming Morton Grove strip mall storefront that doesn't even mention its name in English. It's even more counterintuitive that the sign does advertise Korean barbecue because, while you can order that or a whole bunch of other things, all anyone ever seems to eat there is bo ssam and its natural ally gamjatang, or pork-neck soup.
You can't eat bo ssam without gamjatang and at Hal Mae it's not so much a soup as a heaping pile of fall off-the-bone pork neck bones, sprinkled in nutty perilla seeds, taking a dip in a minimal amount of brick-red broth, a bit like the pozole at Dove's Luncheonette ($24.95 for two). Of course you can't consume either of these things without proper lubrication, so Hal Mae offers four kinds of soju, two varieties of Korean lager, the herbal rice wine known as baekseju, and another, the sweet, syrupy sansachun.