Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days
Friday & Saturday till 11
Bucktown location of the Cuban restaurant.
The second outpost of Alberto and Christine González's 90 Miles Cuban Cafe has table seating and a charming enclosed patio in addition to a counter, the sole seating option at the original on Clybourn. But it retains the warmth of its predecessor, as well as sharing the menu. Pressed sandwiches include innovations like one with tofu in Creole sauce alongside traditionals like a medianoche, a lechon, and a Cubano, the last one of the best I've had in town. Amply portioned dinner plates also offer a few vegetarian options in addition to ropa vieja, lechon, steak, and chicken; all come with plantains and a molded round of rice and beans. We went with a special of masas de puerco, delicious deep-fried pork chunks smeared with mojo and served with rings of white onion. We also liked the crispy tostones and a savory goat-cheese empanada. A big part of the appeal of 90 Miles is the crack service—the staff is assiduous and outgoing, making jokes, pouring water, checking on the meal, backslapping, and handling large parties with aplomb. On a friend's last visit, Alberto was going around offering wine to his guests (the restaurant is BYO); on mine it was samples of Cuban coffee that ended up luring me back for breakfast. There's Latin music on the sound system, and the space is decorated with wallpaper showcasing vintage Cuban posters and hung with photos—yes, that's Alberto with former White Sox pitcher Jose Contreras.
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