Hours: Lunch: Sunday; dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Upscale Mexican restaurant and tequila bar focusing on Oaxacan cuisine.
Adobo Grill is trendy and well appointed, with a mind-numbing array of high-end tequilas, some available on "boards" of ten chilled shots, as well as in smaller flights. Margaritas may be a sign of inauthenticity, but as we kick off the fiesta I quickly lose interest in whats authentic Mexican and what isnt: these are some excellent cocktails. The tuna ceviche is more a tartare, uncooked, lusciously fresh cubes of fish lightly marinated and served with fried plantain and tortilla chips; quesadillas de huitlacoche, warm tortillas filled with melted cheese and inky corn fungus, are delicately earthy. Adobo Grill leans heavily toward Oaxacan cuisine, and there are many moles to be had, starting with the sopes surtidos, masa boats carrying cargo like mashed plantain in a rich mole negro. The more traditional red and green moles can be had on vegetable or chicken enchiladas; Id recommend the chicken—mole was devised to dress up wild turkey centuries ago, and seems to mesh best with mild meats rather than vegetables, which tend to get lost in sauce. Speaking of lost in sauce, if it's available you might consider ending the meal with a special of chilpachole, a shot of platinum tequila chased with a shot of warm shrimp broth. Flan, practically a Mexican restaurant cliche, is here given star treatment, transformed from simple yellow mound to a magnificent milky mastaba surrounded by a caramel moat and crowned with chocolate-covered nuts. Brunch brings huevos enchiladas and chilaquiles.
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