Bar Umbriago | River North | Italian, Bar/Lounge, Wine Bar | Restaurant

Bar Umbriago

Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday; dinner: seven days
Saturday & Sunday brunch
Open late: Monday-Saturday till midnight

Price: $$$

Unfortunate enoteca from the Rosebud group.

Restaurant Details

Bar Umbriago, the Rosebud Restaurants empire's replacement for the ill-fated diner Eatt, is filled with high-tops and the incessant blare of dubstep. If that’s an odd choice of soundtrack for an Italian restaurant, odder still are some of the choices made on its menu, which includes the by-now-familiar selection of salumi, cheese, pastas, cichetti, a few larger secondi, and nearly 150 mostly Italian and domestic wines. But it doesn’t get stranger than the veal-stuffed agnolotti topped with a tumbleweed of deep-fried shredded veal that, even if it didn’t taste burnt, would be an ethically questionable way to treat such a tender meat. Gummy goat cheese gnocchi are tossed with dice of dried-out duck meat. A seafood fritto misto can’t overcome the burdens of an underseasoned and overliberal application of batter. And while there's a small portion of branzino, its flesh moist and skin delicately crispy, at $27 it’s hardly worth the price. Among the other incongruous selections on the menu: a scotch egg, deep-fried giardiniera, and pork cut into squidlike shapes, something that prompted a server to explain: "We do our own butchering here." It doesn’t take long to divine the more encompassing and unfortunate truth behind that statement.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

Bar Details

Bar Umbriago, Rosebud Restaurants' replacement for the ill-fated diner Eatt, is filled with high-tops and the incessant blare of dubstep. If that’s an odd choice of soundtrack for an Italian restaurant, odder still are some of the choices made on its menu, like the veal-stuffed agnolotti topped with a tumbleweed of deep-fried shredded veal that, even if it didn’t taste burnt, would be an ethically questionable way to treat such a tender meat. The wine list features nearly 150 mostly Italian and domestics. —Mike Sula

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