Best Culinary Historian
Paul Fehribach, Big Jones
by
Mike Sula
on
June 20, 2012 at 12:00AM
Between putting in face time at the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium and plumbing the depths of his historic cookbook collection, the southern Indiana native's kitchen scholarship keeps Chicago relevant in the wider movement to resurrect the lost food traditions of the south. Yes, he buys, butchers, and preserves more locally than most, but his menus meander all over the south, from the Low County to Appalachia to Lake Pontchartrain.