by Aimee Levitt
Those egg rolls are, simply, fantastic: a flavorful mix of glass noodles, carrots, cabbage, and shiitake mushrooms wrapped in shatteringly crisp rice paper. The entrees, likewise, are unimaginative in conception but superb in execution. The garlic shrimp, for instance, combined shrimp and broccoli, both perfectly cooked, in a spicy, only slightly sweet black pepper sauce. Only the pad Thai suffers; it's tasty, but slightly bland.
This is definitely Thai food for Americans, but when it's this well prepared—and when there are so many other mediocre Thai restaurants around—do you really want to make lack of authenticity a sticking point?
O'Chai Thai Cuisine, 2062 N. Damen, 773-235-6242, ochachicago.com