Hours: Dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
The Boka group's flagship, now given a reboot under chef Lee Wolen.
Boka Restaurant Group's decade-old flagship has been given a sharper, darker redesign to welcome its new chef, Lee Wolen, who made his name at the Lobby at the Peninsula. His seasonal menu is formal and focused, with some powerfully delicious choices even in late winter. A salad of roasted broccoli florets, preserved lemon, ham, and Marcona almonds tasted simultaneously virtuous and debauched; likewise hearty greens and a poached egg, mined with iron-rich deposits of blood sausage, or ribbons of smoked arctic char draped over roasted potatoes lightened by the sweetness of pears. Among the entrees, most diners will gravitate toward the roasted chicken, Wolen's calling card at the Lobby (here an entree for one), but it was a dish of silky fillets of loup de mer and tender rings of calamari with artichoke hearts, capers, and blood orange preserves, that stood out as a promise of what Wolen can do in warmer months. A decade is a long life for a restaurant, but with Wolen the Boka group's principals have ensured their restaurant's continued relevance for a long time to come. Read the full review >>
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