Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: Saturday till 3, other nights till 2
James hotel to-go window featuring "handwiches," i.e., slider-size sandwiches, most with artisanal bacon of various types.
A bacon bar seems like the most delightful of concepts, a long table, piled high with nothing but bacon in all its glorious manifestations: hickory-smoked bacon, pepper bacon, jowl bacon, candied bacon, and, maybe at the end, a vat of bacon ice cream. But Burke's Bacon Bar—a tiny to-go nook in the James Hotel named for New York chef David Burke of Burke's Primehouse—does not match that Platonic ideal. That's because Burke buries all the bacon in "handwiches," a rotating assortment of petite sandwiches that sell for $4 each, or three for $11. The bacon is great. The handwiches, alas, are not. They're too carelessly assembled and not sturdy enough to withstand the hazards most take-out food is subjected to. The bread gets soggy. The meat and cheese blend together into a general impression of saltiness. Worse, they start to taste kind of the same. The main differences between the CBLT and the Cheddar and Bacon are visual: one has lettuce and tomato and the other does not. The Bacon Bar offers desserts. The rochers, clusters of chocolate-covered Rice Krispies and bacon, are tasty, but not worth the $8. The bacon-caramel popcorn was unavailable both times I stopped by. It was yet another disappointment.
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