Hours: Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Jefferson Park tapas restaurant from chef-owner Virgilio Trujillo; BYO.
I was charmed by the original Cafe Marbella, a far-northwest-side spot with a handwritten specials list and desserts like brazo de Gitano, "Gypsy's arm," a frosted Spanish jelly roll lovingly trotted out on a silver platter. And I was still for the most part charmed by its Jefferson Park incarnation, where on one visit the server announced an order of rabbit with "Here's your hassenpfeffer." But the specials list that night had more misses than hits, among them a supersalty dish of sliced scallops with lima beans. I did love the warm spinach salad with onion, toasted almonds, and raisins, and we all enjoyed the classics—garlicky potato salad, lush brandy-sauced bacon-wrapped dates, and a plain tortilla española. Seafood paella was just OK, but a little chocolate sponge cake and a strong cortado sent us off on a high note.
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