Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner: Sunday-Monday, Wednesday-Saturday
Open late: Friday-Sunday till 11
All-day French cafe and bar from a veteran of Lula and Rootstock.
The all-day cafe is the brainchild of chef Michael Simmons, a Lula vet who abdicated his post across the street at Rootstock, bringing along a few colleagues, significantly Jamie McLennan, who handles the small but assiduously unorthodox wine list. Simmons, who places a priority on house-smoked and cured meats and fishes as well as freshly baked breads and pastries, has packed an almost unmanageable selection of appealing things to choose from into three separate menus, one for each meal of the day. The emphasis on baking and pastry—croissants, monkey bread, and biscuits in addition to Simmons's superb breads—greatly contributes to its morning appeal, but he also gets a lot out of his smoker: in addition to the brisket, the bacon, the fish, and the popular smoked chickens, roasted beets get the treatment too. That wine list is full of interesting, food-friendly varietals, a baker's dozen of which are available by the glass and bottle—and retail—including a smoky Austrian red, a dry, fizzy Lambrusco, and a rich, acidic Riesling, none topping $50. The space is bright and plain, and if you don't mind being left alone for unexplainable stretches of time, it's a not bad place to make camp for a few hours. Read more >>
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