New Zealand's underground music scene is known for its incestuousness: sooner or later everyone plays with everyone else. Perhaps that's one reason why Graeme Jefferies has chosen to base his band the Cakekitchen in Europe. He shares with fellow New Zealanders Roy Montgomery, Alastair Galbraith, and his brother Peter Jefferies a penchant for leavening brooding melodies and harsh instrumental textures with indelible hooks, and like them he's a fan of four-track recording. But those musicians use low-tech recording to enhance the moody atmosphere of their music. Graeme Jefferies doesn't: his four-track preferences cramp the panoramic sweep of his songs. The best way to appreciate the Cakekitchen's music is to see them live: a versatile two-man lineup allows the band to turn on a dime from crashing rock to contemplative ballads to lilting pop, and Jefferies's mammoth guitar ensures that they never sound small. It's their first Chicago appearance in three years. Wednesday, 10 PM, Metro, 3730 N. Clark; 549-0203. Next Friday, April 14, 10 PM, Lounge Ax, 2438 N. Lincoln; 525-6620.