Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till midnight
Breakfast, brochetas (skewers), steaks, and rotisserie chicken from the family behind the late Nuevo Leon, victim of a fire. Cash only.
There's something irresistible about eating food off a stick. At Pilsen's Canton Regio, the brochetas arrive dangling from a little metal stand. It's a setup that's satisfyingly medieval, and it's tempting to grab one and point it at the person across the table, and shout, "En garde!" But then a piece of meat or a shrimp might fall off and land on the floor, lost forever, and that would be sad because those brochetas really are quite tasty. So is the arrachera, or grilled skirt steak, which is available by the kilo and arrives at the table on its own wrought-iron stand. It should also prove once and for all that inexpensive cuts of meat don't have to be tough and tasteless. The latest restaurant from the Gutierrez family, who hurried to open it after the long-running Nuevo Leon burned down last winter, Canton Regio is more upscale, but you still have to pay cash.