Hours: Dinner: seven days
Sichuan restaurant that, like Chinatown's Sze Chuan Cuisine, specializes in the cuisine of the province's gastronomic capital.
When this Sichuan restaurant took over the Lincoln Park space once occupied by the Chinese/sushi spot Jia's, the new owners kept some of its Americanized standards on the menu—orange chicken, Mandarin beef, sweet-and-sour pork, etc. But that did little to alleviate the displeasure of some seriously aggrieved Yelpers, who've been calling the wahhhmbulances about all the spicy red oil, salt, and bony duck chunks ever since. Chengdu Impression doesn't have the sort of epic-length menu you might expect from a Chinatown joint, and it still serves a bunch of dubious-sounding sushi, but there's enough here to keep a serious Sichuan freak burning and buzzing for days and days. Stewed duck with Chinese yam, a dish I loved at Chinatown's Sze Chuan Cuisine, is even better here, the carb-free yam noodles broad and chewy and the blazing-hot liquid swimming with sliced garlic and Chinese celery. "Tiger skin peppers," seared until wrinkly and served with black vinegar, have an appealing fruitiness to them. And yes, they're powerfully hot.
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