Coast Sushi | Wicker Park/Bucktown | Asian, Japanese | Restaurant

Coast Sushi Menu

Hours: Lunch: Saturday-Sunday; dinner: seven days
Open late: Tuesday-Saturday till midnight, Sunday & Monday till 11

Price: $$

Dark, perpetually crowded BYO sushi place.

Restaurant Details

Generally humans take the measure of a fish first by sight, then by smell, maybe giving it a poke and if it seems harmless, tasting it. It could be that the perpetually crowded Coast is a lab for a covert sensory experiment: the fanciful maki rolls are served amid a Stygian murk that denies customers the visual test. I suspected something even more sinister at play when a waitress I came to think of as the Sushi Whisperer was drowned out by a young mom at a nearby table bragging about the features on her new double stroller. I really liked the Sunny Side Shiitake appetizer, fried mushrooms bursting with a gooey egg sauce; my companion’s favorite thing was a mango on a stick, something she could have scored five times over on the sidewalk for the same price. We couldn't much taste the fish any more than we could see it, swaddled as it was with hot sauce, fruit, or whatever other goofy, brightly colored (I think) cake decorations they used to humiliate it. There's sashimi for those who stubbornly remain unimpressed with the clownish “signature maki” this place sells itself on, and actual grated wasabi—not dyed horseradish—is available for a surcharge, which is a nice touch.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$

Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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