Hours: Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday
Charming if slightly musty continental cafe in the Edgewater Beach Apartments (aka the Pink Elephant).
Once a hot spot, the Edgewater Beach Apartments are a celebrity locale no longer, but this charming if slightly musty throwback offers a taste of the Pink Elephant in its heyday. The fare is straight French continental, the brief menu pretty much split between surf (e.g., shrimp cocktail) and turf (tournedos of beef with green peppercorn sauce), with a bird or two thrown in for good measure. Roast duck had perfectly crispy skin; its Calvados sauce was sweet but not too sweet. Seafood tasted fresh, and steaks came with silky nouvelle French toppings like a marchand du vin (mushroom-wine sauce). On occasion the kitchen offers Asian specials reflecting owner Zung Dao's Vietnamese heritage; a few small details like rice flour baguettes and Sriracha hot sauce nod toward the East as well. On weeknights the scene is more early-bird special than I've seen inside the city limits, and I doubt that the live piano music on weekends changes anything. But the sleepy resort vibe is what makes this place so much fun.
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