Hours: Lunch: Friday-Sunday; Dinner: Sunday-Monday, Wednesday-Saturday
A taste of Devon Avenue in Lincoln Square, complete with a lunchtime buffet Friday through Sunday.
The kitchen and service at this Lincoln Square restaurant run like a well-oiled machine. Vegetable pakoras came hot enough to burn our hands; the filling was savory and subtle. Another commendable appetizer was the jhinga karahi: deep-fried shrimp marinated in spiced vinegar and lemon juice. Our entrees were mild but toothsome: the gosht korma (bone-bracketed cubes of top-quality lamb in a saffron sauce) was rich and deep; so, in an entirely distinct way, was the murgh tikka masala (chicken in an herbed cream sauce). For dessert, the gulab jamun were just OK -- cakey instead of curdy -- but the rasmalai (cheese dumplings poached in sweetened milk) were terrific. Prices are reasonable and portions substantially bigger than at comparable places on Devon. The lunch buffet, sampled on another occasion, was disappointing only in relation to our excellent dinner.
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