Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday; dinner: seven days
Brazilian barbecue, served directly off the spits.
The huge industrial space works well with the service concept at this Brazilian churrascaria (steak house): not only is there plenty of room for the enormous center salad bar, but the circulating "gauchos" (servers dressed in those below-the-knee pants) can glide easily from table to table with their huge metal skewers of meat. At this branch of the Brazilian chain, the gauchos serve as many helpings as you want of spit-roasted beef, lamb, pork, and chicken for a set price ($49.50, or $32.50 for lunch). You flip a cardboard marker to green when you want them to approach the table, red when you've got enough on your plate. You can request a desired degree of doneness, but with the meat cycling back to the fire after a few cuts, chances are you won't get anything that resembles rare (we didn't, anyhow). The room is detailed in granite, slate, and natural-colored stones, and an enormous wine rack acts as a divider between the main dining room and the private space in back. Mashed potatoes, fried bananas, polenta, and cheese fries come as sides, but it's hard to give them any attention with all the activity.
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